As many times as I’ve visited Paris, I am actually disheartened to admit that—up until recently—I had never seen the hidden vineyard in Montmartre. After reading an article several weeks ago about Clos Montmartre, or the 1500 square meters of vineyard space covertly tucked behind the Sacré-Cœur, I knew it was a “must” for my next trip to the city. Luckily, work brought me to Reims this summer and I immediately put Clos Montmartre on my bucket list. I was able to make the journey to the vineyard early one morning, which truly could not have been more blissful. After a sweet serenade by a local harpist in front of the Basilica, I wandered the windy streets behind it to be greeted with an exciting surprise: Clos Montmartre.
According to Paris Info:
This vineyard dates from 1932 and has a surface of 1556 square metres. You can find 27 varieties of wine including 75% of Gamay, 20% of Pinot, some stocks of white Sauvignon, Riesling.
Despite its size, it still bottles wine at harvest season during Fête des Vendanges, which feature labels designed by local artists and is mostly auctioned off for local charities.
In the U.S., I often see references to “urban wineries” or “city wineries,” and I’ve heard stories of everything from wineries in basements of 500-square foot apartments to a commercial vineyard on the roof of a brownstone. These models are admirable, creative, and innovative, but I am yet to find a hectare of space in New York City dedicated exclusively to vines. Perhaps one day.
If you’re in Paris and looking for a fun wine adventure, I suggest stopping by Clos Montmartre for a view. You can find it on the corner of Rue des Saules and Rue Saint-Vincent. Depending on the route you take, it will put your map reading skills to the test (no cheating with Google maps).
For more information, see Paris’s Secret Vineyard.
Images property of Lindsey A. Zahn.